How Do I Properly Use a Camming Device for Mountaineering

How Do I Properly Use a Camming Device for Mountaineering?

Mountaineering is an exhilarating and challenging activity that involves technical skills and equipment. One of the most essential tools for mountaineering is a camming device. Camming devices, also known as “cams,” are devices that are used to protect a climber by providing friction against the rock, preventing a fall.

However, using a camming device requires proper knowledge and technique to ensure safety during the climb.

In this blog post, we will discuss how to properly use a camming device for mountaineering, how to choose the right size for a particular climb, common mistakes to avoid when using camming devices, and the proper technique for placing and removing them while climbing.

How Do I Properly Use a Camming Device for Mountaineering?

Camming devices are an essential piece of equipment for any mountaineer. They are used to protect against falls by being placed in cracks or crevices in the rock, providing an anchor point for the climber’s rope. But using a camming device can be tricky and requires proper technique to ensure safety and efficiency.

First, it’s important to understand the different parts of a camming device. They consist of a stem, a trigger, and the lobes. The lobes are the expanding parts that grip the rock when the trigger is pulled, and the stem connects the lobes to the trigger.

To properly use a camming device, start by selecting the right size for the crack you are climbing. This is crucial as the device needs to fit snugly in the crack to ensure stability. Once you have selected the appropriate size, place the device in the crack and pull down on the trigger to open the lobes.

Camming Device Use
Camming Device Use

Insert the device into the crack and release the trigger, allowing the lobes to expand and grip the rock.

It’s important to note that camming devices should always be placed in solid rock, not in loose or fragile rock, as this could cause the device to slip or fail. Additionally, they should be placed in a way that avoids cross-loading, where the device is pulled sideways and can cause it to fail.

How Do You Choose the Right Size of Camming Device for a Particular Climb?

When it comes to climbing, choosing the right size of the camming device is crucial to ensure your safety and success on the climb. Camming devices, also known as cams, are spring-loaded devices that can be inserted into cracks in the rock to create an anchor point for the climber. These devices come in a range of sizes, each designed to fit a particular crack size.

To choose the right size of the camming device for a particular climb, you need to consider several factors. The first factor to consider is the crack size. You’ll need to select a camming device that fits snugly into the crack to ensure a secure anchor point.

A camming device that is too small or too large may not be able to hold your weight and could result in a fall.

Another factor to consider is the shape of the crack. Cams come in different shapes, such as the three-lobe and four-lobe designs. Three-lobe cams are best for irregular cracks, while four-lobe cams are ideal for parallel-sided cracks.

You’ll also need to consider the type of rock you’ll be climbing on. Soft rock such as sandstone or limestone may require larger cams to create a secure anchor point, while harder rock such as granite may allow for smaller cams to be used.

Finally, your level of experience and comfort with climbing will also impact your camming device selection. Less experienced climbers may prefer larger cams for added security, while more experienced climbers may be comfortable using smaller cams for more challenging climbs.

What Are Some Common Mistakes to Avoid When Using Camming Devices in Mountaineering?

One common mistake is over-reliance on camming devices. While cams are an essential part of any climber’s toolkit, they should never be the only piece of equipment used to secure an anchor point. It’s important to have a backup plan, such as using other types of anchor points like nuts or pitons, to ensure that if a cam fails, there is a backup in place.

Another mistake to avoid is improper placement. Camming devices should always be placed in solid rock or ice to ensure that they will hold in the event of a fall. Placing cams in loose or crumbling rock can lead to failure and result in dangerous falls.

Finally, climbers should be careful not to over-tighten the cams. Over-tightening can lead to the cam becoming stuck, which can be difficult to remove and result in a dangerous situation. It’s important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for tightening and loosening cams to ensure they are secure but not over-tightened.

Overall, proper use of camming devices is crucial for any mountaineer. By avoiding these common mistakes, climbers can ensure their safety and enjoy their climbs with confidence.

What Is the Proper Technique for Placing and Removing Camming Devices While Climbing?

Proper technique is vital when placing and removing camming devices while climbing. To place the camming device, the climber needs to identify the crack size and choose the right size device. The device should be placed carefully and tested by gently tugging on it before committing to the climb.

To remove the device, the climber needs to release the trigger bar and gently rock the device back and forth while pulling it down to dislodge it from the crack. The climber should avoid using excessive force or pulling in a single direction, which can damage the device or cause it to become stuck.

Read more about the Proper Use of a Rappel Device for Mountaineering.


In conclusion, using a camming device in mountaineering is a crucial skill that every climber must learn. Proper use of these devices can save lives and prevent accidents. Choosing the right size of the camming device and avoiding common mistakes is equally important to ensure safety.

Placing and removing camming devices using the correct technique is vital to ensure they are secure and won’t fail during a climb.

Remember to practice and hone your skills regularly to become a competent and safe climber. Always prioritize safety over speed or thrill-seeking. Stay safe and enjoy your mountaineering adventures!

Similar Posts

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *